My 10 Favorite Dishes of 2016

D-Magazine – December 29, 2016

It was hard to pick 10 best dishes from a year’s worth of meals. For every one I’ve included here, there are two others I wanted to but couldn’t. The selection is not necessarily about culinary fireworks. But these are the dishes that stand out, that, when I close my eyes, I can still taste and remember.

Cassis parfait at Flora Street Café

The work of pastry chef Ricardo Sanchez is a study in French technique. His cassis “parfait,” on the Flora Street menu since the beginning, is essentially black-currant mousse over a cinnamon brown butter shortbread biscuit. But little details matter: the berry-infused jicama strands’ almost imperceptible crunch over the lofty cassis mousse, the fresh blackberries and blueberries, the small quenelle of hibiscus sorbet, the tiny cassis meringues, and the passion-fruit gelee circle off to the side as an accent. It’s a unified, quite perfect composition.